Sewing machine



A. H. DE VOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED .IIIEzI1 ISI?. ncNEwED IAN. 4.1922.

TTORNEY A INvENToR A. H. DE VOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLlCATION FILED JUNEZI, i917- RENEWED JAN. 4.1922.

Patented May 16, 192'?.y

6 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

` INVENTOR MUM wb TTORNEY A. H. DE VOE.

SEWING MACHINVE. APPLICATION FILED JUNE 21, 1917. RENEWED 1AN.4.1922.

1,41 6,005. Patented May 16, 1922.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

lBY

ATTORNEY A. H. DE VOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED .IUNE27, 1917 RENEWED IAN. 4.1922.

1,41 6,005. Patented May 16, '1922.

6 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

INVENTOR BY @H7/gwn A. H. DEVOE.

SEWING MACHINE.

.- APPLICATION FILED IuNEzT, 1911. NzNswsn IAN. 4.1922. I 1,41 6,005, Patented May 16, 1922..

' e SHEETS-SHEET s.

an lwl- -I ,/f/l/f/f/f//M INVENTOR @la/AW.

www

ATTORNEY A. H. DE VOE.

'SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED JUNE 27, ISILRENEWED JAN. 4.1922.

Patented May 16, 1922'.

INVENTOR ATTORNEY entre STATES agrar omen.

ALBERT H. DE VOE, 0F WESTFIELI), NEW JERSEY, ASSIGN OR TO THE SINGER MANU- FACTURING- COMPANY, A CORPORATION 0F NEW JERSEY.

SEWING MACHINE.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented May 16, 1922.

Application filed .Tune 27, 1917, Serial No. 177,206. Renewed January 4, 1922. Serial No. 527,055.

To all whom t may concern Be it known that I, ALBERT H. DE Von, a citizen ot' the United States, residing at Illestfield, in the county of Union and lState of New Jersey, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification, reference being had therein to the accompanying drawings.

This invention relates to an improvement in buttonhole sewing machines. and more particularly of that type in which the stitching mechanism performs a turning or rotary movement in stitching around the eye of the buttonhole; but it is susceptible of use in other types of sewing machines having provision for control of the stitching period.

The invention has for its principal object the severance of the needle-thread and the control of the latter in such manner that the cut ends are .disposed at the under face of the work upon the completion of a stitching operation.

In buttonhole stitching machines, and particularly those wherein the stitching mech anism isl mountedto perform turning movements during the stitching period, it is desirable that the Work receiving the stitching be exposed to the View of the operator with as little obstruction as possible, and that the thread-severing means be therefore disposed beneath the Work. In the preferred embodiment of the present improvement, a. threadcutting and pull-ofi' device is therefore mounted upon the rotary turret carrying the loop-taking means cooperatingfwith the usual reciprocating needle.

In its preferred form, a thread-cutting blade having .a sharpened 'or knife-edged extremity is fixed upon the turret at a pointremote from the range of act-ion of the stitchforming mechanism, and a nipping blade or element, also fixed upon the turret, is disposed intermediate such blade and the stitching mechanism. A reciprocatory threadengaging or pull-ofi' blade or element. prefer` ably formed with a barbed operative end overlies the fixed thread-cutting blade and moves in a path underlying the nipping element. Suitable mechanism is provided for imparting to the thread-engaging element operative movements from extreme retracted position through a needle-thread loop seized and distended by a'loop-taking member and retracted either into operative relation with the fixed nipping element in the `initial stitch-forming cycle of a group or succession, to effect the drawing' down and nipping of the init-ial thread end in the production of the first stitch, or to extreme retracted position vpast the fixed cutting element to effect the pulling out and severing ot the threadloop in the final stitch-forming cycle of a group, provision being made for performing a supplemental step'of a full traverse by the thread-engaging element to extreme retracted position in a stitch-forming cycle of the same group succeeding the initial nipping action.

W'hile the actual nipping of the thread end in the initial stitch-t`orming cycle is considered desirable. this is not deemed essential tothe present improvement, and in some cases it has been found practicable to omit the fixed nipping blade, so that the initial action of the reciprocatory thread-engaging element is Inerely that of a pull-out tov insure the drawing of the extremity of the beginning end ot' the needle-thread below the fabric. lVhile the present improvement 1s designed more particularly for action upon the needle-thread, a device of this character may obviously be employed in severing and nipping a lower thread of a plural-thread stitching mechanism.

In machines of the character described, the loop-taking means and other requisite parts disposed beneath the work are so grouped adjacent the stitching point that little space remains to accommodate auxillaries such as thread-cutting and nippingv eyelet buttonhole stitching machine disclosed in my pending applications Serial No. 69,644, led -December 31, 1915 and Serial No. 150,003, filed February 21, 1917, with certain modiiications of the looper mechanism. In addition to the stitch-forming, feeding and buttonhole cutting mechanisms, this machine is provided with controlling means whereby a series of stitched buttonholes may be produced in a continuous operation, and with automatically acting means for shifting the work intermediate stitching periods to space the buttonholes apart. In such machines it is important that the needle-thread be severed at the end of each stitching period to prevent injurious deiection of the needle by the lateral pulling of its thread leadlng to a previously stitched buttonhole, and the impairment of the final stitch of such buttonhole. The present construction is believed to be the first in which a threadsevering device has been embodied in a machine oi' this class with the consequent de scribed advantages.

Fig. 1 is a side elevation and Fig. 2 a plan of so much of the said buttonhole sewing machine as is necessary to an understanding of the present improvement which is shown applied thereto and Fig. 2a is a vdetail plan view of certain parts represented in Fig. 2. Figs. 3 and 4 are respectively a Jfront end elevation and a rear side elevation of operative parts of the machine, Figs. 5 and 6 are perspective views, and Fig. 7 a side elevation, of certain parts for controlling the operation of the thread-engaging element. Figs.v 8, 9, 10 and 11 are plan views representing certain of said parts of the controlling means in their relative positions at different stages of a buttonhole stitching period. Fig. 12 is a sectional elevation representing the turret, its support and the operative parts sustained thereby, and Fig. 13 a plan of the same. Fig. 14 is a` sectional side elevation of the same parts7 and Fig. 15 a view of the turret from the under side. Fig. 16 is anelevation of a part of the looper-actuating mechanism, Fig. 17 a perspective view of the looper, its carrier and a portion of its actuating means and Fig. 1S a perspective view of the looper detached. Fig. 19 (Sheet 1) is a perspective view representing the thread-engaging or pull-oil' element with its carrier and amember of its actuating means. Fig.' 20 is a perspective view of` the thread-engaging elements of the pull-off, cutting and nipping device. Figs. 21 and 22 are respectively a side elevation and plan of the same with the stitch-forming elements in one stage of the initial stitch-forming cycle of a group, Figs. 23 and 24 are corresponding views of the same in a second stage of the same cycle, and Figs. 25 and 26 are corresponding views of the same in still another stage of the same stitch-forming cycle. F igs. 27 and 28 are views similar to Figs. 25 and 26, but with the parts in the stage of the inalstitchforming cycle in which the needle-thread loo is severed.

s represented more fully in my said application Serial No. 69,644, the machine is constructed with a stationary frame comprising the bed 1 upon the top of which rests the base-platel 2 of the travelling stitch-frame within and longitudinally of which is journaled the rotary crank-shaft 3 having one of its bearings in the apertured boss 4 from which depends the vertical fulcrum-stud 5 Vjournaled in an aperture of the bed 1 (Fig. 4). The stitch-frame is provided with an upwardly extending rollerstud 6 entering the feed cam-groove 7 of the rotary cam-cylinder 8 from which it derives its longitudinal endwise movements. The cam-cylinder is provided with the side-shift cam-groove 9 which is entered by a rollerstud 10 upon one arm of a rock-lever 11 fulcrumed at 12 and having its other arm pivotally connected by means of ay link 13 with the post 14 rigidly sustained by the stitch-frame.- From the means described, the stitch-frame derives' travelling lmovements lengthwise of the crank-sha t 3 and sidewise swinging movements about the fulcrum-stud 5.

The post 14 is rigidly sustained by the bracket-arm "15 which is in turn rigidly secured to the standard 16 rising from the base-plate 2, and to it is rigidly secured the bearing bracket 17 formed with the alined and apertured bosses 18 which receive the rotary needle-bar bearing bushing 19. Within the bushing 19 is the reciprocating needle-bar 20 carrying the eye-pointed needle n which is mounted for rotation with the bushing.

r1`he needle-bar is connected by suitable means extending through the wall of the bushing 19, as set forth' in my said application, with a boss 21 slidingly {it-ted upon the bushing and disposed at one end of an arm 22 having upon its other end the split boss 23 which is fixed upon the slide-rod 24 suitably jolurnaled within the bearing bracket 17. The slide-rod is pivotally connected to the upper end of a pitman 25 having at its lower end the split boss 26 embracing the wrist pin 27 intermediate the crank-plates 28 of the actuating shaft 3. Through the means just described, the needle n, carrying the upper thread a, receives its operative reciprocating movements.

Cooperating with the needle beneath the work is the looper Z which seizes threadloops therefrom and holds them distended for passage of the curved lower needle s, which is shown with eyes adjacent the point and shank, respective-ly, and which carries its thread b upwardly through the upperneedle loop and forms a loop of its own thread above the Work for passage of the upper needle in a manner Well kno-Wn.

' The shank of the looper l is secured to and crossvvise of the upwardly extending carrier-arm 29 provided With the fulcrum-pin 30 disposed transversely o-f said arm and of t-he looper shank (Fig. 17 This fulcrumpin enters the tubular boss 31 of an irregular shaped block 32 which is formed with the upwardly extending crank-arm 33 disposed transversely -of the arm 29 and provided with the stud-pin 34 which is disposed at substantially right angles with the pin 30. The pin 34 enters a suitable bearing aperture (as represented in dotted lines in Fig. l5) of a block 35 secured `in the lower portion of the rotary turret 36.

The arms 29 and 33 carry upon their adjacent faces respectively the roller-studs 37 and 38 entering cam-grooves 39 and 40 formed in the periphery and one of the ends, respectively, of the cam-cylinder 41. The cam-cylinder 41 is fixed upon the horizontal rockshaft^42 which is` mount-ed in suitable bearings provided therefor in the turret and has fixed thereon, near one end the pinion 43 meshing with the vertical rack 44 upon a block 45 secured upon a lateral extension 46 of the head of the vertically reciprocating sleeve 47 slidingly fitted upon the tubular stem 48 depending axially from the turret.

The head of the sleeve 47 has an opposite-ly disposed extension 49 which is connected by means of the link 50 with the curved needle-carrying arm- 51 having a fulcrum-pin 52 journaledin a suitable inclined bearing of the turret and having secured thereto the shank of the curved needle s. The vertical reciprocation of the sleeve 47 produces, through the described connections, reciprocations of the curved needle s in an arc Within a plane inclined to the upper needle 111, and through the cam 41 imparts to the looper Z compound movements about the pivotalpins 30 and 34 in a suitable path for its cooperation with the needles n and s in the production ofV overedge stitches.

The sleeve 47 has fitted thereon intermediate its head and the thrust nut 53 a sleeve- 54 carrying the laterally projecting studpin 55 having the roller 56 entering the fixed slideway 57 of the frame to restrain the sleeve 54 againstturning. The pin is embraced by the apertured upper end of the pitman 58 which is operatively connected through suitable dwell-producing means withthey actuating crank-pins 59 and 60 of the adjacent crank-plate 28 as shown and described in detail in connection with my pending application Serial No. 69,644. Through the connections referred to. the sleeve 54, and hence the sleeve 47 derives from the crank-shaft reciprocatory move ments suitable for imparting to the looptakmg means their necessary movements 1n cooperation with the needle n..

As represented more particularly in Figs. 12 and 14, the turret is mounted in ballbearings upon. the upper end of the cylindrical curb or casing 61 rising from the forward end of the, stitch-frame base-plate The needle-bar bushing 19 has secured upon its upper end the hub of a crank-arm 62 provided with the inclined crank-pin 63; and the lower end of the tubularturret stem 48 has similarly applied theretothe hub of the crank-arm 64 provided With the inclined crank-pin'65. Each of the crank-pins 63 and 65 has fitted thereon a sleeve 66 having a transverse pivotal `connection With the yoked extremity of an oscillatory pitmanbar 67 Whose opposite yoked extremity is similarly connected with a sleeve 68 embracing the inclined pin 69 of a crank-arm 70 at one extremity -of the rock-shaft 7l mounted in the bearing bosses 72 sustained by the main frame.

The shaft 71 has a portion of its length screw-threaded at 73 to receive the inwardly extending roller-studs 74 radially disposed lipon the lsliding sleeve 75 fitted upon the rock-shaft 71 (Figs. 2 and 4). The sleeve 75 is connected at its upper end With one end of a link 76 having its opposite end connected at the .outer end of a swinging lever 77 journaled upon the xed fulcrum- 1 stud 78 and carrying intermediate its ends the roller-stud 79 entering the peripheral cam-groove 8O of the cam-cylinder 8. rThe vertical movement of the sleeve 75 under the action of the cam-cylinder operates through the described connections to turn thence extend across the center line and along the straight side and around the eye in the usual mannerv` from which it proceeds along the opposite side and around the smaller end to a. point across the center line opposite that at which the stitching commenced. In this operation the stitching thus turns through an arc exceeding by a quadrant a complete rotation, and provision is made for turning the same back through a corresponding arc after each buttonhole stitching period.

Secured by means of a fastening screw 81 upon a suitable seat provided upon the turret 36 are the overlapping feet 82 and 84 of the relatively 'fixed nipping and cuttingblades 83' and 85, respectively. Provision is made for adjustment of these blades by making the apertures in their respective feet somewhat larger than the fasteningscrew shank. These blades are provided with lateral extensions 83 and 85', respectively, lying in closely adjacent concentric arcs extending across the stitching point, with the knife-edged cutting blade extension `or cutting 'element disposedremotely from-.the stitching point and the nipping blade extension or nipping element arranged intermediate the same and the' stitching point.' v

' Movable in a curved path intermediate the nippiE and cutting blades 83 and 85 is .the p out blade 86 which has its reduced outer or upper extremity barbed to form a sharp beak 87 adapted to enter a needlethread loop upon the looper Z and a throat 88 adapted to receive a limb of said loop .in the retractive movement of said blade from the stitching-point. The shank of the loop-seizing or thread-engaging blade 86 is secured upon an arm 89'having a fulcrumpin 90 which is journaled -in a suitable horizontal bearing upon the turret 36 concentrica'lly -with the cutting and nipping elements, whereby the barbed operative extremity of such blade is confined to a curved path in which it is adapted to move in contact or rubbing relation with the relatively fixed nipping and cutting elements.

An arm 89 (Figs. 1 and 19) is formed 'in one face with a radial slideway 91 entered by a slide-block 92 mounted upon the lateral stud 93 of the operating lever 94 which is .formed with the lateral fulcrumpin 95 entering and journaled within a suitable bearing aperture of the turret. The lever 94 is normally pressed downwardly into initial lower position by means of a spring 96 interposed between the same and a socket| 97 provided uponl the turret.

, The reduced outer or free end portion 94 of-the lever 94 is formed with a head 98 which normally enters a lateral segmental guideway 99 in the transverse memberv100 of one of the rigid arms 101 of a yoke which is formed with a second rigid arm 102 having at its lower end the extension 103 formed with a straight lower edge. This yoke `is secured to a transverse seat of a cross-member 104 at the lower end of a sleeve 105 which is slidingly fitted upon the upright post 14 andl is provided-at its-upper end with the collar 106 formed at one side with the lateral projection 107 in the form of a tooth having an abrupt shoulder.

The member 104 is formed with an aperture 108 which is entered by the lower end of a guide-pin 109 depending from a lateral lug 110 of a collar 111 secured upon the post 14 above the sleeve 105. The yoke 101, 102, is normally pressed downwardly by means of a spring 112 surrounding the guide-pin 109.

Sustained by the stationary cloth-plate 113 is a block 114 to which is secured the bearing bracket 115 having journaled there- Iin the endwise sliding rock-shaft 116 which is provided at one end with the upwardly extending arm 117 cut away upon one side to form a stop-shoulder 118. Secured upon the rock-shaft 116 intermediate its spaced bearings is the split collar 119 resting against one of 'said bearings and between which and the other of said bearings is interposed a surrounding spring 120 having its extremities connected respectively with said collar and the bearing with which it contacts.

The outer or upper portion of the arm 117 is normally maintained by the spring 120 in contact with .the sleeve 105 excepting when the sleeve recedes therefrom under the action of the feeding mechanism, when it is maintained in substantially upright position by engagement of the projecting portion lof the collar 119 with the bracket 115 (Fig. 6). At certain times the sleeve 105 is elevated and allowed to descend underl the action of its spring 112. At such times, when the longer portion of the arm 117 lies against the edge of the tooth 107 the latter is permitted to descend vunobstructedly by the stop-arm, butV when such arm assumes a different lateral position with the shoulder 118 beneath the tooth 107, the descent of'the sleeve is arrested by the stop-shoulder for a time until the parts so engaged become disconnected in the further operation of the machine.

Mounted within suitable bearings 121 of the base-plate 2 is the rock-shaft 122 having secured upon its forward end the hub 123 of a tappet-arm 124 to the rearward face of which is preferably secured by screws 125 a lifting arm 126. In the position of the parts represented in Figs. 1, 2 and 3, the lower and inner inclined edge of the arm 124 lies within the substantially elliptical path of movement of a roller-stud 127 sustained by the needle-bar actuating pitman 25, so that in the rising movement of the pitman the stud wipes against the operative edge of the arm 124 and moves it upwardly and outwardly so that the upper edge of the lifting arm 126 forcibly engages the overhanging extension of the arm 103 so as to lift the same and with it the sleeve 105 to produce an operative movement of the cutting mech'- anism.

The tappet-arm is normally maintained retracted out of operative relation with the stud 127 by the spring 128 surrounding the rock-shaft 122 and having its ends secured respectively in one of the bearings and the thrust-collar 129 fixed upon said rock-shaft between which such spring is interposed. Secured upon the rock-shaft 122 intermediate the collar 129 and the other. of the bearings 121 is the split collar 130 provided with the lateral wing4 131.

The rock-shaft 122 is adapted to be thrust endwise into operative position in opposition toits spring 128 by means of a plural-armed shift-lever which is fixed upon the fulcrumpin 132 journaled in the stitch-frame and is provided with a forwardly projectingarm 133 having a nose 134 normally opposed to the adjacent edge of the wing 131 of the split collar 130, and -having a second angularly disposed arm 135 carrying a rollerstud 136.

The vshift-lever fulcrum-pin 132 carries upon its lower end a short arm 137 between which and the bottom of a suitable socket formed therefor in the stitch-frame is interposed a sprin 138. The stud 136 is thus normally presse against the periphery of a cam-disk 139 sustained by the depending hub 8 of the cam-cylinder 8. The cam-disk 139 is formed with two spaced projections 140 and 141 which serve to rock the shift-lever and thereby thrust the rock-shaft 122 endwise in opposition to the spring 128 so as to carry the tappet and lifting arms into operative relation with the parts with which they coact, as represented in Fig. 2. As the rock-shaft 122 is rocked by engagement of the stud,127 with the arm 124, the wing 131 is tilted below the nose 134 of the shiftlever and snaps beneath the same under the action of the compression and torsion spring 128, thereby permitting the retraction of the arms 124 and 126, as represented in Fig. 2a.

The further movement of the cam-disk 139 carries its operative projection beyond the roller-stud 136 and permits the shift-lever to return under the action of the spring 138 into retracted position, as represented in dotted lines in Fig.v2a, and thereby permitting the rock-shaft 122 to turn into initial position in which it remains until a succeeding forcible engagement of the shift-.lever with the wing 131.

Before completion of a buttonhole producing cycle the. cam-cylinder 8 assumes a position in which the roller-stud 10 is about to enter the crook 9 of the side-shift carngroove 9 (Fig. 2), the rock-shaft 122 and its endwise shifting means are in the positions represented in dotted lines in Fig. 2a andthe stop-arm 117 occupies the position represented in dotted lines in Fig. 7 and in full lines in Fig. 8 relative to the sleeve 105. In the succeeding operation of the machine, the

stud 10 traverses the crook 9 and thereby y causes a side-shift of the stitch-frame as 1n-v dicated by the broken line of Fig. 8, to permit the action of the buttonholecutting elements in stitching position. This causes the sleeve 105 to be carried sidewise to bring the lateral shoulder of the tooth 107 to one vside of the longer member of the lstop-arm 117 (Fig. 9) so that, in its return to initial position the shoulder of the tooth 107 engages the adjacent edge of the arm-member 118 and carries it outwardly in opposition to the spring 120 (Fig. 10), the face of the shorter member of the stop-arm assuming, under the torsional action of the spring120, contact relation with the extremity of the tooth 107. v

As the cam-cylinder 8 continues its movement, the roller-stud 136 rides up the inclined face of the cam projection 140 and the rock-shaft 122 is thrust forwardly into the position represented in Figs. 1 and 2. The stitching mechanism being now thrown into action by suitable means, the initial rise of the pitman 25 carries the stud 127 into 4engagement with the tappet-arm 124 which rises and carries with it the lifting arm 126 which engages the extension 103 of the lifting yoke (Fig. 3) and lifts the sleeve 105 to `its highest position in which it is released by the movement of the roller-stud beyond the end of the arm 124. In the rising movement of the yoke 101, 102, the guideway 99 is lifted and carries with itv the operating lever 94 and thereby moves the pull-off member 86 into extreme advanced position in which it enters the initial needle-loop which has `been seized and spread by the looper Z (Figs. 23 and 24).

Under the action of gravity, accelerated by the spring 112, the sleeve now descends until` arrested by engagement of the ltooth 107 by the stop-shoulder 118 of the arm 117, thereby permitting the retraction of the pull-oit' blade 86 under the action of the spring 96 to a position in which its barbed extremity underlies the operative portion 83 of the nipping blade 83, thereby drawing out the initial loop of needle-thread and nipping its cut end, as represented inFigs. 25 and 26.

As previously explained,the initial stitches are laid across the narrow end of the buttonhole slit, and the stitching mechanism therefor performs initially a step-by-step turning movement to properly position these stitches. In the turning of the turret 36, the head 98 of the operating lever 94 nrides out of its `ruideway 99 after the first few stitches have been formed.l whereby the operating lever thus released is permitted' to regain initial position, the pull-off blade consequently returned to initial position, as represented in, Figs. 21 and 22 and thereby releasing the thread end so as to lobvi'ate resistance to the feed of the work in the continuance of the stitching operation.

While the nipping of the initial thread end is considered desirable to insure the proper formation ofthe initial stitch of .a series, it has been found in practice that this operation may in some instances. be dispensed with, in which case the mpping blade may be omitted, as also the stop-arm 117. In such case, the initial action of the pulloff arm is merely to pull out the cut end of needle-threadfrom the work and draw it toward thev cutting blade in a single step movement from the stitching point to retracted position. In this case the loose end of needle-thread is obviously not of sufficientlength to reach to the cutting blade, and a cutting action does not therefore take place in the first stitch-forming cycle.

The action of the stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms now continues in stitching along the first side of the buttonhole, around the eye, along the second side of the buttonliole, and partially around the smaller end thereof until the final stitching cycle. As the stitch-frame performs its longitudinal stitch-spacing movement, 'it carries with it the post 14 and the sleeve 105, sol that the tooth 107 is disengaged from the stop-arm 117 and the rock-shaft 120 is thereby permitted to snapv endwise into initial position (Fig. 1l) the stop-arm being slightly tilted backwardly as represented in dotted lines in Fig. 7 by engagement with the tooth 107 in the return of the stitch-frame to initial position. Upon disengagement of the sleeve from its stopping means, it descends to its lower position in readiness for a succeeding operation.

As the parts arrive in the positions which they assume in the final stitching cycle, the cam projection 141 engages the roller-stud 136 and the rock-shaft 122 is again thrustl forwardly for a succeeding actuation of the pull-off blade, the sleeve 105 being elevated as before. In the descent of the sleeve 105, the tooth 107 now merely rubs against the adjacent face of the longer member of the stop-arm without engaging the operative shoulder of the latter, and therefore performs in a single step its descent to initial lower position, therebyv permitting the pulloff blade to perform a singley movement to extreme retracted position. In this stitchforming cycle, the pull-off blade engages the loop of needle-thread which has one limb attached to the work and the other limb connected with the thread-supply leading through the upper-needle-eye fr om which@ length of thread is drawn sufficient to enable the loop to reach to the operative edge of the cutting blade 85 (Figs. 27 and 28) past whichl it is drawn and by engagement of which it is severed by a shear cut in its movement so as to leave a sufficient length of thread leading 'through the eye of the needle for beginning the succeeding buttonhole stitching operatlon. The throat ofthe pull-off element may be formed with a sharpened edge tol cooperate with the sharpened edge of the relatively fixed cutting element.

It will thus be seen that the pull-out element performs repeatedmperative movements to and from the stitch-forming mechanism during the production of each group or succession of stitches composing a stitching period, such movements being of different effective lengths in the respective stitchforming cycles in which the thread is seized and drawn out. While the thread-drawing and nipping movement in the initial stitchforming cycle is followed by a continuation of the initial or effective movement into extreme retracted position after the thread has become anchored in the work by a succeeding stitch or stitches, such continuation is idle as regards the action of the pullout element upon the thread and therefore has no function in cooperation with the stitch-forming mechanism.

In the present embodiment of the linvention, the actuating means for the thread-engaging or pull-out element 86 is designed to invariably move the element 86 into operative or severing relation with the Cutting,r blade 85 when, unrestrained from vnormal action; but while such movement of the thread-engaging element is effective in performing such normal pull-out function upon the thread under such unrestrained actuation, the controlling means afforded by the interengaging stopping elements 107 and 118 causes said pull-out movements to be periodically shortened from their full amplitude and thus renders them at such times ineffective in establishing cutting relation between the elements 85 and 86.

It will be observed that the arcuate form of the cutting, nipping and pull-off blades is desirable, although not essential, for convenience in installation and actuation in the performance of their several functions and for compactness, but that these elements are readily susceptible of modification in this respect to suit the conditions under which they may be employed. It is also evident that the barbed form of the pull-off blade is a desirable .feature of the improvement in that it permits the body of the blade to constantly overlie the sharpened operative edge of the cutting blade in its excursions be-` tween eXtreme positions so as to insure perfect cooperation therewith Withoutv disarrangement relative thereto and consequent injury in operation.

While the relatively ,fixed nipping and cutting elements are disposed preeralbly upon the same side of and are spaced at different distances from the stitching point, thereby permitting plural-stage and singlestage operative movements of the thread-engaging or pull-off element in the same direction, it is evident that such .arrangement of these elements relatively to the stitching point is not essential, so long as the pull -off element performs its operative movements accordingly. It is also imma- As before indicated, the present improve-l ment is designed particularly for embodiment in machines for producing groups or successions of stitches in which the period of operation of the stitch-forming mechanism is subject to automatic/or semi-automatic control. vThe present improvement is shown herein embodied in the buttonhole` cutting and stitching machine of my said application Serial No. 69,644, employing a stop-motion for initiating and interrupting the action of the stitch-forming mechanism, the timing of the stitching period being effected through the stopmotion by the rotary feed cam-cylinder 8, as is usual inmachines of this class.

By the term stitching period as used herein is meant that period -begirming and ending respectively with the initial and final stitches of a group; while the term stitchforming cycle denotes a cycle of movement of the stitch-forming elements in producing an individual stitch of such a group.

From the foregoing description it is obvious that the present improvement is not limited to the embodiment herein shown and described, but may be greatly modified within the scope of the invention, both in the character and the arrangement of its cooperative elements which direct-ly act upon the thread and in the construction and arrangement of its actuating means. While the present construction is designed for operation upon the needle-thread, it is evident that it is capable, with little modification, for action upon the other thread or threads of a stitch-forming mechanism.

Having thus set forth the nature of the invention, what I claim herein is 1. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a cutting element disposed beyond the range of action of the same, a pull-out element, and actuating means' acting upon the pull-out element in eachfei a plurality of stitch-forming cycles of an uninterrupted group or succession to cause it to seize thread from the stitch-forming mechanism and carry it to a point removed from said cutting element in one of said cycles and into cutting engagement with said cutting element in another of said cycles.

2. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a cutting element disposed beyond the range of action of the same, a pull-out element, and actuating means operating upon the pull-out element during an uninterrupted stitching period in i effecting repeated excursions of the same into and out'of" the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism to seize and draw out thread, said pull-out element acting to carry lthe thread into cooperative relation with said cutting -element during one only of said excursions.

3. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a cutting element disposed-beyond the rangeof action of the same, a pull-out element, and actuating means `operating upon the pull-out element to produce movements thereof within the initial and final stitch-forming cycles of a stitching period to seize thread from the stitch-forming mechanism and carry it respectively part Way toward and into operative engagement with the cutting element. 4. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a cutting element and a nipping element spaced apart and from the stitch-forming mechanism, a thread-engaging `element adapted to seize thread from the stitch-forming mechanism and carry it to said cutting and nipping elements, and means acting uponsaid threadengaging element in one of the stitch-forming cycles of a group or succession to carry the thread into effective engagement with the nipping element and in another of said stitch-forming cycles to carry the thread into effective engagement with the cutting element.

5. Inl a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a thread-engaging element movable toward and from the stitch-forming mechanism, a cutting element spaced from the stitch-forming mechanism within the range of action of the threadengaging element, a thread-nipping element disposed within the range of action of said thread-engaging element and intermediate the stitch-forming mechanism and said cutting element, and actuating lneans for imparting to said thread-engaging element during diITerent stitch-forming cycles of a group or succession a partial and a complete traverse through its range of movement for carrying a thread from the stitch-forming mechanism to the nipping element and the cutting element, respectively.

6. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, athread-engaging element movable in a single path toward and from the stitch-forming mechanism, a cutting velement spaced from the stitch-forming mechanism within the range of action of the thread-engaging element, a thread-nipping element disposed within the range of action of said thread-engaging element and intermediate the stitch-forming mechanism and said cutting element, and actuating -means for imparting to said thread-engagcycles of a group or succession, respectively, a partial and a complete traversethrough its range of movement whereby it is adapted to carry -a thread from the stitch-forming mechanism respectively to the nipping element only in said partial traverse and past the nipplng element to the cutting element in its complete traverse.

7. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a relatively stationary cutting element and a relatively stationary nipping element spaced apart and from the stitch-forming mechanism, a thread-engaging element adapted to seize thread from the stitch-forming mechanism and carry it to said cutting and nipping elements, and actuating means for said threadengaging element to cause it to carry the thread into effective engagement with first one and then the other of said elements, re-

' spectively, in different stitch-forming cycles of a group or succession.

8. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle and a cooperating looptaker, a cutting. element and a nipping element spaced lapart and from the stitch-forming mechanism, a thread-engaging element adapted to seize thread'from the loop-taker and carry it to said cutting and nipping ,elements, and actuating means for said threadengaging element to cause it to carry the thread into effective ,engagement with first one and then the other of' said elements, respectively, in diHerent stitch-forming cycles of a group or succession.

9. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle and cooperating loop-taking means-comprising a loop-taker, feeding mechanism, a cutting element beyond the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism, a thread-engaging element adapted to seize one limb of a needle-thread loop while actively engaged by the loop-taker and to carry 1t into engagement with said cutting element, and actuating means for said thread-engaging element including a connection with the feeding mechanism for.

timing the action of the same.

10. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism mounted for rotation and including a reciprocating needle and cooperating loop-taking means, a rotary turret sustaining said loop-taking means, a thread-cutting device also sustained by said turret and comprising a cutting element disposed beyond the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism and a thread-engaging element adapted to seize a limb of a needle-thread loop and to carry it into cutting engagement with said cutting element, and actuating means for said thread-engaging element. L

11. In a sewing machine, in combination,

the turret.

stitch-forming mechanism mounted for rotation and including a reciprocating needle and cooperating loop-taking means comprising. a reciprocatory looper, a rotary turret sustaining said loop-taking means, athreadcutting device also sustained by said turret and comprising a cutting element disposed beyond the range of action of the stitchforming mechanism and a thread-engaging element adapted to seize a limb of a needlethread loop while actively engaged by the looper and carry it into cutting engagement with said cutting element, and actuating means for said thread-engaging element. l 12. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism mounted for rotation and including 'a reciprocating needle and cooperating loop-taking means, a rotary turret sustaining said loop-taking means, thread-cutting and nipping means mounted upon said turret and including a barbed thread-engaging element movable in opposite directions to iirst enter a needle-loop and subsequently draw back upon and sever one limb thereof, and actuating means for said thread-cutting and-nipping means comprising interengaging parts mounted respectively upon and independently of said turret and adapted for disconnection by rotation of 13. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming lmechanism, rotary supportingmeans therefor including a turret, means acting While the stitching is in progress for turning the turret and with it the stitch-'100 forming mechanism through an arc beginning-.and ending at circumferentially differ-l ent extreme positions, and means acting to draw the beginning needle-thread end below the Work in the initial stitch-forming cycle and to sever the needle-thread loop below the fabric in the -final stitch-formingl cycle.

14. I'n a sewing machine, in combination, l stitch-forming mechanism, rotary supporting means therefor including a turret, means acting while the stitching is in progress for turning the turret and with it the stitchforming mechanism throughl an arc beginning and ending at circumferentially differ.- ent extreme positions, and means including loperative elements mounted upon said turent extreme positions,

nipping means mounted upon said turret, and actuating means therefor for effecting the nipping of the thread at one and the cutting of the thread at the other of said eXtreme positions of the stitch-forming mechanism.

16. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, rotary supporting means therefor including a turret, means acting while the stitching is in progress for turning the turret and with it the stitchforming'mechan'ism through an arc beginning and ending at circumferentially differthread-cutting and nipping means mounted upon said turret, actuating means therefor forv effecting the nipping of the thread at one and the cutting of the thread at the other of said extreme lpositions of the stitch-forming mechanism, and-controlling means therefor timed by the rotation of the turret to release the thread after a nipping action.

In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism mounted for rotation and including a reciprocating needle and cooperating loop-taking means, 'a rotary turret sustaining said loop-taking means, a thread-cutting and nipping device mounted upon said turret and comprising cutting and nipping elements disposed beyond the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism and a thread-engaging element adapted to seize a limb of a needle-thread loop and to carry it selectively into engagement respectively with said nipping element or said cutting element, and actuating means for said thread-engaging element.

18. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, rotary supporting means therefor including a turret, a

l thread-cutting device mounted upon said turret and comprising 'relatively movable cooperative blades acting to sever the thread by a shear cut, and actuating means for said thread-cutting device.

19. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, rotary supporting means therefor including a turret, a cutting element sustained beyond the range of cutting element in action of the stitch-forming mechanism, an element sustained by said turret and cooperating with said cutting element in seizing and severing a thread from the stitch-forming mechanism, and actuating means for effecting the cooperative action of said elements.

20. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, rotary supporting means therefor including a turret a cutting element sustained by the turrret beof the stitch-forming mechanism, an element also sustained by said turret and cooperating with said seizing and severing a thread from the stitch-forming mechanism,

and actuating operative action of said elements.

21. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, rotary supporting means therefor, including a turret, a cutting element sustained by the turret beyond the range of action of the stitch-forming element, a thread-engaging element also sustained by the turret, and means connected with said thread-engaging element to cause it to carry thread from the stitch-forming mechanism into engagement with said cutting element.

22. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a cutting element disposed beyond the range of action of the same, a pull-out element, and actuating means operating upon the pull-out element repeatedly during a stitching period in effecting excursions of the same into the range of action of the stitch-forming 'mechanism and thence into cooperative relation with said cutting element. i

23. In a sewing machine, in combination, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism,

means for effecting the coand a shear thread-cutter comprising a reciprocatory element movable toward and from the work-support into and out of the range of action' of the stitch-forming mechanism, and a cutting element cooperating therewith and disposed beyond the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism and farther from the plane of the work-support than the position assumed by the reciprocatory element within the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism.

24. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, rotary supporting means therefor including a turret, a cut'- ting element sustained by said turret and spaced from the work-Support, and a pullout element movable into and out of the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism and cooperative relation with said cutting element and in a path wherein it is closer to the plane of the work-support while within the range of action of the stitchforming mechanism than in cooperative relation with said cutting element.

25. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, rotary supporting means therefor including a turret, a cutting element sustained by said turret, and a pull-out element cooperating with said cutting element in severing the thread and movable in an arched path ret and into and out of the range of actlon of the stitch-forming mechanism from which it is adapted to seize thread from the stitchforming mechanism at a point nearer the plane of the work-support than said threadcutting element.

26. In a sewing machine, in. combination,

a work-support, stitch-formlng mechanism, and a Shear thread-cutting 'device comprising elements mounted for cooperation at a point spaced from the work-support, one of said elements being mounted to engage an seize a thread from the stitch-forming mechanism at a point below the work and nearer the plane of the work-support. than said pointof'cooperation.

27. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism comprising a reciprocating needle and cooperating looptaking means adapted to seize thread-loops from said needle, a thread-cutting blade posed beyond the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism, a barb-pointed pull-out blade overlying and cooperating with said cutting blade, and automatic means Jfor projecting the pull-out blade into a needle-thread loop while engaged by said loop-taking means and or withdrawing said blade to draw the loop into engagement with said thread-cutting blade.

28. In a sewing machine, in combination, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle and cooperating loop-taking means sustained respectively at different sidesI of the work-support, needle actuating means including a ro'- tary crank and a pitman connected therewith, a thread cutting device including an operative element upon the side of the worksupport occupied by the loop-taking means, and an operative connection between the latter and said pitman.

29. In a sewing machine, in combination, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle and cooperating loop-taking means sustained respectively at different sides of the work-support, needle-actuating means including a rotary crank and a pltman connected therewith, a

thread cutting device including an operative element movable into and out of the range of action of and adapted to seize thread from said loop-taking means and disposed upon the side of the work-support occupied by the loop-taking means, and an operative connection between the latter and said pitman.

80. In a sewing machine, in combination, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle and cooperating loop-taking means sustained respec- .tively at different sides of the work-support, needle-actuating means including a rotary crank and a pitman connected therewith and provided with a lateral shoulder, a vibratory tappet-arm, a thread cutting device, an operative connection between the latter and said tappet-arm, and means for shifting said tappet-arm into and out of the range of movement of said shoulder.

31. In a sewing machine, in combination, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism including a reci rocating needle and cooperating loop-takln'g means sustained respecdistively at different sides of the work-support, needle-actuating means including a rotary crank and a pitman connected therewith and provided with a lateral shoulder, a vibratoryr tappet-arm movable into and out of operative relation with said shoulder, a thread-cutting device, an endwise movable rock-shaft sustaining said tappet-arm andV provided with a thrust-sustaining shoulder, a shifting device normally opposed to and engaging saidgthrust-sustaining shoulder and adapted to be disengaged therefrom in the rocking of said shaft, and actuating means for said-shifting device acting with less frequency than the operative movements of: said crank and pitman.

32. In a sewing machine, incombination, a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle and cooperating loop-taking means sustained respectively at different sides of the work-support, needle-actuating means including a rotary crank and a pitman connected therewith and provided with a lateral shoulder, a vibratory tappet-arm movable into and out of operative relation with said shoulder, a threadcutting device, an endwise movable rockshaft sustaining said tappet-arm, a collar i'xed thereon and provided with a laterally projecting-thrust-sustaining wing, a. shifting device normally opposed to and adapted for engagement with said wing to impart endwise movements to said rock-shaft, and actuating means for said shifting device acting with less frequency than the operative movements of said crank and pitman.

33. lIn a .sewing machine, in combination,

a work-support, stitch-forming mechanism including a reciprocating needle and cooperating loop-taking means sustained respectively at different sides of the work-support, needle-actuating means including a rotary crank and a pitman connected therewith and provided with a lateral shoulder, a vibratory tappet-arm movable into and out of operative relation with said shoulder, a threadcutting device, an endwise movable rockshaft sustaining said tappet-arm and provided with a thrust-sustaining shoulder, a shift-lever opposed to said thrust-sustaining shoulder, and a cam provided with a plurality of cam projections engaging sai lever successively during stitching periods each including a plurality of stitch-forming cycles.

34. In a sewing machine, in combination.l stitch-forming mechanism, a thread-cutting device including an operative element movable into and out of the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism, positively acting means for moving said element toward the stitch-forming mechanism and a spring for imparting thereto retrogradeoperative movements, and a stop element actingl with less frequency than said actuating 130 relative travel,in iXed relation respectively,

means and adapted to arrest said operative element intermediate the ends of its retro'- grade movements.

` 35. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a thread-cutting device including an operative element movable into and out of the range of action of the stitch-forming mechanism, positive acting means for moving said element toward the stitch-forming mechanism and a spring for imparting thereto retrograde operative movements, a stop element acting with less means therefor including interengaging elements disposed, respective of the path of with the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-support and adapted for disengagement insaid relative travel.

37. In a sewing machine, in combination, a work supporting frame, stitch forming mechanism, a stitch-,frame sustain-ing the same, means for producingJ between said frames relative travelling stitch-spacing movements, means mounted upon the stitchframe for seizing from thej stitch-forming mechanism and nipping an end of thread in an initial stitch-forming cycle, and actuating means therefor including interengaging elements mounted respectively upon said frames and adapted for disengagement in said relative travel.v

38. In a sewing machine, in combination,

stitch-forming mechanism, rotary supporting means therefor including a turret, means acting While the stitching is in progress for turning the turret and withv it the 4stitchforming mechanism, pull-out means sustained by the turret and including a reciprocatory implement adapted to seize and draw out thread from. the stitch-forming -mechanism, a vibratory lever fulcrumed upon the turret and operatively connected with said implement, and actuating means mounted independently of the turret and comprising a reciprocating member` having a guideway disposed transversely to and entered by said lever, said actuating means acting through the walls of said guideway to lmove said lever in opposite directions.

i 39. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, rotary supporting means therefor including a turret, means acting while the stitching` is in progress for turning the turret and with it the stitchforming mechanism, pullout means sustainedby the turret and including a reciprocatory implement adapted to seize and draw out thread from the stitch-forming' mechanism, a vibratory lever fulcrumed upon the turret and operatively connected with said implement, and actuating means for said lever mounted independently of the turret and comprising a reciprocating member having a guideway disposed transversely to and entered by said lever, means being provided for arresting said reciprocating member in an intermediate position of its range of movement and there detaining it for disengagement of said operativelever frpm said guideway by rotation of the turre v 40. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, rotary supporting lmeans therefor including a turret, a threadengaging member mounted upon said turret and having a pointedy extremity adapted to enter a needle-loop whenaprojected on one direction, said member bei'ng further formed with a cutting edge directed oppositely to said point, whereby when said implement is retracted one limb of the needle-loop will be caught and severed, and means ,for advancing and retracting said member.

` 41. In asewing machine, in combination,

stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, and means Jfor drawing down below'thework the beginning end of the needle-thread in the initial stitch-forming cycle of a series' or succession and for cutting the needlethread4 in the4 final stitch-forming cycle of said series orsuccession, said means including a thread-engaging element additional to the stitch-forming mechanism and acting in succession upon the thread both in said thread-,drawing and said thread-cutting operations.

42. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, and means including acutting element and a single pull-out element for drawing down below the work the beginning'thread-end in vthe initial stitchforming cycle of a series or succession and for drawing out and cutting the thread in the final stitch-forming vcycle of said series or succession.

43. In a sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a cutting element disposed beyond the range of action of the same, a pull-out element adapted to seize thread from the stitch-forming mechanism and carry it into severing relation with the cutting element, and actuating means therefor acting repeatedly in the same uninterrupted series of stitch-forming cycles to cause it to seize and draw out thread from the stitch-forming mechanism including a recipi rocating needle, a cutting element disposed pull-out element to seize and draw out the thread respectively into and outy of severingprelation with the cutting element.'l y

45. In a sewing machine, in combination,

of action of' .the stitch# stitch-forming mechanism, a cutting element disposed beyond the range of action of the same, a pull-out element adapted to seize thread from the stitch-forming mechanism and carry it into severing relation With the cutting element, actuating means for impartring repeatedly to said pull-out element operi ative thread-engaging trolling periodlcally ineffective in producing cooperation With said cutting element.

ln testimony whereof, I have signed my nameto this specification. g

` ALBERT'H. DE VOE.

movements, and conmeans to renden4 said movements 

